cyclingthehimalayas.com : Mission Impassible!
Cycling in Central Asia, Cycling the Himalayas, Cycling in North India, Cycling in Nepal
Cycling the Srinagar to Leh Highway
Over 90% tarmac and much of it new. Challenging & breath-taking (in more ways than one) climbs. Stunning desert landscapes and wonderful Ladakhi villages & people. Mostly at an altitude of 3000-3500m, making it very manageable.
We chose to bus it to Jammu, as inexperienced as we were on crazy city roads. We got a luxury coach which genuinely was! When we booked the coach the agent took extra money (400Rps) for our bikes and arranged a taxi to pick us and our bikes up. The taxi arrived way too late and we had trouble fitting our bikes in. We eventually got going and the driver didn't have a clue where he was going, in the end he spoke to some locals and this resulted in us being dropped off on the side of the road and the driver motioned to our bus which was parked across two fast carriageways. We had to carry all our stuff across these carriageways as if participants in the retro arcade game 'Frogger'. The coach driver asked us for 500Rps for the bikes. We showed the ticket, that we had paid 400Rps to the agent - which obviously hadn't made it's way to the coach company. Cue lots of angry phone calls to the agent. The coach driver gave the phone to me (Toby) to speak with the agent, lying through his teeth stating he had paid the coach company. The cowardly agent sent a rep who was lucky not to be severly beaten by a now angry mob of coach company employees. The rep escaped and about 15 minutes later returned with 200Rps - a strange gesture from the agent seeing as this admitted his guilt. On this trip, more than any other, we have learnt that Travel Agents in India are the lowest form of life and will even sell their grandparents given the opportunity.
After a comfortable journey to Jammu, we were inundated with touts for a share taxi to Srinagar which could fit our bikes on the roof. The road from Jammu to Srinagar is probably the worst cycling road we witnessed on our travels: Cliff hugging winding mountain roads in poor condition, with a lot of fast and crazy traffic. A good decision to avoid cycling this road, however, our alternative wasn't much better: 9 passengers crammed into a very uncomfortable share taxi which took about 8 hours to do around 250km. Arriving in Srinagar we were met by a tout and stayed at his guesthouse opposite the hospital; little did I know then how convenient this would be! There are over 1000 houseboats in Srinagar and the price varies according to season, you can barter to as little as 700Rps a day or be charged up to 3000Rps a day in high season!! It's best to have a good look as the best locations are way out on Dal lake, away from the main town. It's really worth having a half day on one of the little 'shikira' boats. It's a wonderful way to see the lake and scenery and if you're lucky you'll stop on a little island where a guy sells the most delicious Kashmiri tea!
We were delayed leaving Srinagar due to Toby's stomach problems from Delhi coming back with a vengeance, but eventually we set off.
Day 1 - Srinagar - Sonamarg (85km)
We set off at dawn with the lake on our left side, after several km's you reach a junction and take a left on the highway. After about 15km, the first village outside of Srinagar, there was a fork in the road and we needed to ask directions. There was an old muslim women in terracotta burka and full garb sat by the side of the road. I (Toby) was going to go up to her and ask for directions but remembered that approaching an unaccompanied female may be unacceptable so i rode on...i got the sense something was going on behind me as i cycled past her...Ian caught me up and explained she had got up and thrown a brick at me...luckily she was about as accurate as a scud missile and was closer to hitting Ian than me. Clearly, westerners aren't welcome everywhere...this didn't bode well. We had read that westerners shouldn't camp between Srinagar and Drass (150km) due to local hostilities.
The road is reasonably flat for 50km. At around the 60km road marker the cold rain started to fall accompanied by undulating hills. At about 64/65km we took refuge from the cold blustery rain at a dhaba set up on a bank, there were rooms to stay here too, but you wouldn't want too if you could help it. We set off again after a couple of warming chai's to do the last 20km to Sonamarg which felt tough in the conditions and for me recovering from a 10 day stomach bacteria problem. The road is enclosed by rock faces on both sides and a river running on the right. About 3km outside Sonamarg the road suddenly opens up into a wide expansive area. There are some chai stalls and dhabas to the right. It was here we were stopped by a guy who asked for our documents and was wielding a book of receipts...he was asking for 50Rps claiming the money was to protect the local area. He had no government badge of any sort and having experienced this scam before I gave him a serious ear bashing, particularly pissed off at being asked for ID documents. He soon relented and probably wished he'd never asked. A 1km climb took us to a view down the valley of Sonamarg (bottom left pic), beautiful green alpine...but with a heavy army presence. There's loads of accomodation in Sonamarg, the older established places further down but the newer and considerably nicer accomodation are at the top, as you enter. It's quieter here too and recommended. Sonamarg is worth a day or two of your time to go for day treks, especially to the local glaciers.
Day 2 - Sonamarg - Drass (65km)
It's a climb up Zoji La just beyond Sonamarg. After about 14km the road seriously deteriorates hard packed mud and rock. The climb is epic though, beautiful verdant valley scenery and a rough cliff hugging road (top right pic) with lots of animal traffic: Goats, sheep & horses ruling the road. It's slow progress. At one stage we had to stop for about half an hour while a JCB cleared the road of a rock fall. Slow progress due to the poor condition of the road. We reached a high cliff hugging corner with an over hanging rock/roof and found four armed military guys looking a bit chilly having chai and food. We stopped and asked if they had any spare chai and they were super happy to oblige. 2km further and the mountain walls retreat and the environment opens up. The road becomes tiled/cobbled; a minor improvement; and before we knew it we were at the curious high pass. It's a pass in a valley, so doesn't have the majestic views of some high passes, in fact you could easily cycle past it!! The cobble soon gives way to excellent asphalt and we were rewarded with a fantastic fast descent: beautiful peaks all around of varying shades of green, blue, grey, sandstone and glaciers. We had 12km of free wheeling enjoyment until the road deteriorates once more to real bone shaking hard packed rock and scree which continues for about 15km almost all the way to Drass. Drass is a bit of a weird wild west kind of place, it's harsh and has extremely cold winters, it doesn't feel entirely welcoming. As we entered the main drag, there's a sign for JK Tourist guesthouse which is down a small lane on the right. We had a ground floor room that we could wheel our bikes into. It's basic but spacious for 400Rps, and we are always happy when we can wheel the bikes into the room! Walking back to the main road, on the corner is City View restaurant which done a very decent rajma & rice.
Day 3 - Drass - Kargil (60km)
Mostly an excellent road from Drass to Kargil, it's newly laid, even has white lines!! Just the occasional rough patch here and there and for the first 8km it's undulating...but then it's mostly downhill and a quick ride following the river and barren environment, but the mountains/rocks here have wonderful shades of brown, beige, dark brown - it's stark, dramatic and hostile. Apart from 5 or 6km outside of Drass there's little in the way of shops or chai stalls. We found a temporary chai stall at the confluence of the Drass & Sindh rivers (wonderfully blue water) and the only shops were at the sweet little village of Gharagand about 15km from Kargil. There's a passport check as you enter Kargil. There are many hotels, the more pleasant and quiet ones are set just off the main road in the centre of town: Siachen or PC Palace. Both are good for bike storage but neither are cheap and you'll have to haggle to get a room for 800 or 1000Rps. There are cheaper, noisier options around. Kargil is okay but it's busy; busy with men doing nothing; which is never appealling.
Day 4 - Kargil - Mulbeck (40km)
It's a 5km climb out of Kargil and a dramatic view back over the town. The road to Mulbeck seemed like an equal amount of ups and downs but it's in fact an ascent of 600m to 3307m at Mulbeck. The barren desolate landscape around Kargil becomes dramatic sandstone grand canyon style mountains with the road following the river through valleys. The villages along the way are tiny without any shops or chai stalls. The road is mostly good but about 25% of it is in a poor condition, some of it 'off road'. Just outside Mulbeck is the first place to stay: A row of tents below the road called Nunkan. A little further, the most expensive looking option is a place called Maitreya guesthouse. Further still, on the right side is the sweet little Othsal guesthouse (bottom right pic). To find the gnarled old owner of Othsal guesthouse take the gate on the left and go up the steps at the back and you'll find someone that can help. It's basic but clean rooms (with flies) for a haggling 400Rps. Mulbeck is a wonderful little village, the peaceful Ladakhi feel is quite a contrast to the busier and rougher Kashmir that we had cycled through. The central point of the village is the revered Buddha Maitreya temple and opposite is Sharma Dhaba, a great place to sit for a 60Rps Thali plate - you can stay here but the rooms are filthy.
Day 5 - Mulbeck - Lamayaru (68km)
The landscape around the Namika La pass is a highlight of the Himalaya. It's a slowish meandering climb on good road, with occasional switchbacks. It's about 11km of ascent. The landscape is desert like, with some mountains looking like giant sand dunes and other mountains looking like the hide of a worn out elephant (bottom left pic). The climb feels remote and the pass itself is rewarding: Standing atop the pass looking over the desert like mountain ranges and valleys, it's hard not to feel humbled by the incredible beauty and majesty of it all: Mixed feelings of being both miniscule, compared to the mighty landscape, but also infinite, having conquered and tamed the pass. It's a fast descent on good road, whizzing through the picturesque village of Khangral which has a chai stall by the road side. Khangral is on the valley bottom and boasts colours of the harvest, sandstone and luscious green trees scattered here and there. The next settlement of Bodh Kharbu contains a few shops, chai stalls and basic dhabas: A good place to recharge before tackling the pass of Fotu La. It's just after Hiniskut that the ascent starts - 12km of mostly switchbacks. The road is excellent apart from the final rough 1km to the top. About 5km from the top is a chai stall on the right hand side, a good place to stop before pedalling the last few switchbacks which are quite punishing - just when you think you have tackled the last switchback another one appears! The prayer flags at the pass are battered by the strong winds. This is the highest point on the Srinagar to Leh Highway - over 4000m. It's a rapid descent on good road with great views and a couple of colourful 'view point' temples by the side of the road are worth a quick stop to take in the stunning views. It's about 15km from the pass to the dramatic, mountain clinging Ladakhi village of Lamayaru (bottom right pic). As you descend into Lamayaru there is an appropriately named guesthouse on your right called Moonland...but we stayed about 100m further down, a guesthouse on the right whose name escapes us. It has a great roof top area with panoramic views over the whole valley. The last guesthouse as you leave the village, Lion's Den, is nicely positioned. You could easily while away a few days and illicit beers here in this relaxing, welcoming and stunning place.
Day 6 - Lamayaru - Alchi (68km)
The descent from Lamayaru is foreboding, such are the menacing, dark brown mountains which tower over you as you descend into the gorge. It's about 18km to the rather scrappy Khaltse which has a few shops and restaurants and even a guesthouse. It's a small ascent out of Khaltse and another 12km to little Nurla. Just as you leave Nurla you cross a bridge over a rushing tributary and there's a wonderfully placed chai stall on the left. From this chai stall, at the next bend in the road is a resort offering new looking straw huts, and further along the road is a new looking eco lodge advertising rafting. The road is mostly good asphalt with road markings, a bit of a roller coaster of ups and downs, but feels more down - which it is. The surrounding brown arid mountains have incredible shades of blue, grey, green and brown. About 2km before Saspol, to the right side, there's a bridge crossing the Indus river leading to a few switchbacks which soon take you to the remote, ancient, lost in time and space friendly village of Alchi (bottom left pic). The surrounding landscape is dramatic, stark, arid, rocky brown mountains. Alchi has lots of places to stay. It has a sweet little village centre with shops and one large, very well presented restaurant in which we had the best Jalfrezi we have ever tasted. Alchi is another place where you could soak up the mountain vibes for a few days.
Day 7 - Alchi - Leh (68km)
It's 5km down the switchbacks, across the bridge to Saspol. There are several dhabas along the main drag and a couple of guesthouses too. Leaving Saspol the road climbs 300m over barren landscape and then drops down to Basgo, which has a shop and a chai stall. It used to be an important ancient Ladakhi settlement but is now dominated by the military. It's then a few km's to Nimmu, whch has a huge busy military presence. There's a main drag of shops and dhabas, but if you pass all these, as you leave Nimmu there's a sweet little garden restaurant called Nilza, on your right. It's possible to stay here too. It's 36km from here to Leh with quite a tough climb of 350/400m, but the landscape is really impressive, the good asphalt cutting through expansive big desert style mountains (bottom right pic). You also pass 'Magnetic Hill' which is a kind of optical illusion: We felt/sensed we were going down hill but oddly we had to pedal quite hard - when we looked back we could see we were actually ascending: such is the illusion of the landscape. The top of the climb is flat and then the road descends; amongst sandy surroundings; almost all the way to Leh - but it's a steep climb going into Leh, past the Shiv Mandir temple and then it flattened a bit as we passed the airport but then it's a slight incline all the way into the centre of Leh and feels more punishing than it should. The nicer places to stay, quieter, with mountain views, are along Changspa road, north west of the main bazaar. There are a couple of bicycle maintainance places, the best one on Changspa. Leh also has loads of camping equipment and small gas canisters.
